Amber's African Journey

Sunday, 27 November 2005

Location: Nairobi, Kenya

Sorry, it has been awhile since my last journal entry. The internet has been harder and harder to come by and when I did find it the cost was insane! I have travelled so much in the past two weeks that I am just now catching my breath. It has been amazing to see so much of this country. My trip from Nakuru to Nairobi alone was quite an adventure. I decided to take everyone's advice and just travel without any set plans including no hotel reservations. I thought I would try and shake the anal planner/control freak that is me while on this trip (all the other volunteers travelled this way). No one thought it would be a problem to find a nice hotel in Nairobi to stay for a few nights before I headed off to the coast, but oooh it definately was. I arrived at the Fairview Hotel (recommended by one of my volunteer friends) at about 2:00pm only to find out that they are booked solid. So the kind lady of the front desk offers to call another hotel on my behalf, but they are also booked. A few hotels later and I walk down to the local travel agency where this incredibly kind women proceeds to spend the next two hours on the phone to every hotel in Nairobi, absolutely no rooms available (apparently there is some kind of convention that no one was aware of). So here I am alone in Nairobi with no place to stay for the night and yes I start to freak out a little (ok alot) and I am nearly in tears. The poor travel agent took pity on me (I even thought about offering her money if I could stay at her house for the night). Finally, a few hours later she finds a hotel with a room, but she thinks it is a bit "dodgy" (her word) and seems nervous about sending me there. No worries, it was a beautiful hotel in the outskirts of Nairobi where I stayed for two nights until I could get into the Fairview Hotel which I absolutely love!

And things just got better thanks to a wonderful surprise that arrived in Nairobi on November 12th named Nathan. He was a bit worried about me and decided to come join me for the vacation part of my trip. I have never been so happy to see someone in my entire life! We have travelled to Watamu (north coast), Tsavo East National Reserve, Diani Beach (south coast) and Masai Mara National Reserve during the past two weeks. The safari's were amazing for this girl who loved animals more then people as a kid. It was a dream come true to be in the presence of so many beautiful animals. The coast was unbelievable too! The Indian Ocean is warmer than the Pacific off Hawaii and the Atlantic of the coast of Florida. It was like stepping into a warm bath with clearest blue water I have ever seen. I wish I could have shared all the day to day experiences while travelling, but no internet.

Now I am already fantasizing about my return to the states. Since I fly into San Francisco International Airport I will get to see my favorite family, the Montgomery's. Then I want to enjoy an American 4-star luxury hotel in downtown San Francisco for a night and finally eat at my favorite Italian restuarant in the city, Little Joes (I even know exactly what I am going to order). These plans will get me through the long 30 hour journey back home.

Please check out some of the pictures that help tell the story of the last two weeks here in Kenya.

I love you all and I am so excited to be coming home soon to the land that I love (more now then ever before).

Amber

Monday, 07 November 2005

Location: Nakuru, Kenya

"Nothing is better for self-esteem than survival"
Martha Gellhorn - Travel Writer

I came across this quote during my trip to Mount Kenya and it is absolutely the truth. There have been so many experiences here in Kenya that I am truly amazed that a) I survived; b) I participated in; c) I volunteered for and d) I thoroughly enjoyed.

My trip to Mount Kenya was amazing especially the part where I was convinced that I traveled to Africa from America only to catch the Asian Bird Flu. Yes, I became horribly sick while at my very first Youth Hostel (the word youth is used loosely, since after all I am the not so youthful age of 34). There were about two days there that I was convinced I had contracted the Asian Bird Flu and was sure to die soon. My fever reached up pretty high and apparently took over all good reasoning ability (not that I ever have much). Keep in mind I went to Mount Kenya to help the reforestation project that is desperately needed in and around Mount Kenya due to mass tree clearings that have been undertaken for too many years. Some volunteer I turned out to be since I spent most of my time laying in my room staring at the walls. I survived thanks in large part to Patrick, the hostel care taker who was so incredibly kind and concerned about me. He would bring me hot water every hour and try to encourage me to eat a little something in the morning and at night. Did I mention their was no electricity or hot water at this hostel? Let me tell you taking a cold shower when you are that sick is painful (yes, I cried like a little girl).

I did get the opportunity to climb to just above 10,000 feet of Mount Kenya on the the first day we arrived. I debated it over and over whether I should climb or not because I had already become sick, but it was my one and only chance so I took it. I am so grateful that I did because it was so beautiful! The pictures just don't do it justice. Two of our group (Neil and Gwen) climbed all the way to the top (19,000 feet) which took a total of five days.

After a total of eight days we were headed back to Nakuru which is no easy task. First, we walked the muddy road from the hostel to a more major road where we waited to be picked up by a matatu. Well, we never did see one so instead we rode for about 20 minutes in the back of a modified toyata truck with a roof on the back. There were a total of 22 of us in the back of this truck, we were literally piled on top of one another and could barely breath (again I am amazed that I survived). When faced with no other options you do what you have to do (sorry tried to sound profound). One of our fearless group freaked out and pushed and shoved her way out of the truck causing only one injury (to me). I got a pretty good whack on my nose from her hiking boot and my nose started to bleed which made a few people a little nervous. Now I just have a small scratch on the side of my nose that is healing nicely. See another wild experience that actually had us laughing so hard we started crying. Neil to help make light of the situation told all the other african passengers that she was just a "mad mzungu". He was trying to be funny, but the look of horror on the other passengers faces let us know that he missed the mark. So we tried to explain that we were just joking and she really is ok. And we should make room for her in the front cab of the truck. She was able to get back in the truck and off we went. Unfortunately, this was only the first leg of our journey, we still had two other matatu's to get on for the four hour trek home to Nakuru. We made it!

I am off because it is time to head home before lockdown.

I love you all and still miss you!

Amber

ps I think the travel agency saga is almost resolved, I will keep you posted.

pss During my illness at the mountain I was trying to save what I thought to be a hummingbird trapped in the kitchen when to my surprise it stopped flying and turned out to be the largest beetle I have ever seen in all my life. I screamed for the whole hostel to come take a look and we all agreed that this is the biggest beetle to ever live. Nearly 4 inches long and 1.5" wide!

Thursday, 27 October 2005

Location: Kenya

Well, I survived another crazy night in Nakuru (barely). The whole lot of us went to a posh dinner last night at the nicest hotel in town, Emerica, to say farewell to Marianne who is headed home. Dinner was wonderful even with my rising fever that clearly let me know that I have caught something. So I was excited to head home and rest after our wonderful dinner, but no! The group decided to go clubbing (well sort of like clubbing) and I couldn't travel home alone because it was simply too late. So off we went to a bar/nightclub called Dimples (yes, Dimples). Once we sat down we all noticed some major electric sparks coming from the main speaker (not far from where we were sitting) and water (atleast I hope it was) dripping from the ceiling. Some of us saw the headlines "Volunteers Die in a Horrible Nightclub Fire", but we decided to stay until nearly 2 am anyway (see traveling with strangers is not always a good plan). So in my infinite wisdom I thought to just go with the flow (just like grandma says) and tried to break my fever with a little Smirnoff Ice (every Kenyan drinks) and dancing, mzungu style. I think it actually worked and we had a great time dancing and laughing the whole night. We even sat up and had a bit of tea when we arrived home. Those English can really party! It is so not me, but what you gonna do?

Well, now for the fustrating part of traveling. I am fighting with a local travel agent that I originally worked with in the States over an american express payment. They designed a nice itinerary for me once my volunteering ends and I wanted to pay via american express before I left, but they had some trouble. So once I arrived in town I went to their Nakuru branch to try and pay via american express. I was told by the manager that they required a cash payment (alarm bells) and that I could not put the charge on my american express (they simply could not do it for for a bunch of wierd reasons). So he was going to research payment via visa and call me, he never did. So I was left with no way of paying and so I have been scrambling to make other plans. And just when I got a gameplan I receive an email from Shoor Travel that my american express has been charged the entire amount. I freaked out (it is so much money) and tried to work it out with american express. Important note, after I met with Shoor Travel here in Nakuru and was told that my american express could not be used, I asked my mom to contact american express to block any charges from this company. She was told that no charge could go thru for Shoor Travel. Well, after speaking with american express yesterday they cannot do that so the original information from amex was wrong. It was incredibly comforting to finally get a hold of american express after searching for nearly two hours just to find an international phone that I could pay for by the minute only to speak to someone in India that basically made me feel like I am screwed! I am asking Shoor Travel to put a credit through, but I just don't know what to do. Any help that anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated. My experience with this type of situation is limited and it is incredibly fustrating.

Sorry for that, but it is on my mind. That is even more reason why I am excited to be off on a journey to Mount Kenya today. I had high hopes of climbing with two other volunteers, but I just didn't bring the right gear, so I will probably just make it to basecamp. Then on Monday I will be working with the Kenyan government to do some replanting in and around Mount Kenya for a week. I will take lots of pictures, I hear the view is spectacular!

I love you all and I will talk to you soon!

Amber

Monday, 24 October 2005

Location: Nakuru, Kenya

Did I freak everybody out or what with my journal? My grandmother told me to just put on my "big girl panties" on and get on with it, so I will. I had a great time traveling the country this weekend with a huge band of volunteers, mostly from England. We went to Nakuru Lake, Lake Bringo, Thompson Falls and Lake Bagoria. Wow, beautiful places with amazing wildlife. It was definately not an easy ride to all of these remote places, but I got some great shots that I will add to this page as soon as I can.

We all got to talking this weekend and so many of us are struggling with the same things which was incredibly helpful to hear. Are we really doing anything? It is not just the lack of resources, but also the style of teaching that make it so diffucult for the children to learn. So I will remind myself that I will give of myself what I can in my short time here. The truth is that I am gaining more from this experience than I am giving because I am becoming more aware and more understanding of the world around me thanks to this journey. My eyes are being openned to different ways of life that I never knew before.

I am so impressed with the kindness of so many Kenyans. They just smile and want to talk to you about your life and they want so very much to share their own life experiences with you. One story comes to mind is when Sue and I stayed late in the downtown area and could not find the Matutu stop where we pick up a ride back to our apartment, so we began to get a little nervous because it after 7pm. We just asked a women we passed on the street where the bus stop was and not only did she tell us, she walked us all the way there in the rain. She was beautiful to us. And this happens time and time again.

Love,
Amber

ps Grandma I put my "big girl panties" on, but it is still tough.

ps An American is arriving today, I will keep you posted.

pss All the kids in my school are shocked to learn that 50cent comes from America. They all assumed that because he is black, he lives in Africa. They are surprised to know that their are black people in America. The boys love 50cent and the girls love usher, crazy.

Friday, 21 October 2005

Location: Nakuru, Kenya

Well, at about 9pm last night I was ready to get on a flight out of Africa (except the airport is over 100 miles away and I am not allowed to leave the apartment after 6pm) no matter the cost. I think the lack of sleep (averaging 2 hours a night thanks to the 3 bars that surround the apartment) and the level of danger that does truly exist here have compounded my homesickness. But today I worked hard with the preschoolers and ate lunch with the young women living at the project and I had another moment. It is just like playing golf for me, you hate it most the time, but you hit that one great shot and their I am walking up to the next tee with a sense of confidence. Yes, isn't that just like an American to compare the difficulties of poverty to that of a golf game.

I was so unprepared for the level of poverty I have encountered here in Nakuru. It assaults all of your senses and never lets go. This is definately not Hemingway's Africa. I wish I were better with words so that I could clearly describe the sights, smells and sounds of this experience, but the truth is that it must be experienced to fully be understood. I could go on and on about each and every child I encounter, each and every place I see, but it would not do it justice. By no means am I recommending you travel to Nakuru. Although, last night I would have given anything to have someone I love walk into my apartment and comfort me. This is an experience that should be shared with someone you love and trust. I think this will be the last trip I will take alone because the lonliness is too much to bare and not entirely necessary.

I am still a bit weirded out by seeing goats, dogs, pigs, chickens, cows just walking the streets rummaging through the piles and piles of rubbish (those damn English) that literally line the streets everywhere. And on nearly every corner is some crude form of a butcher shop where animals are being killed and put in the window while other live animals simply walk around until their time comes (this might be what finalizes my decision to become a vegetarian). The smell is inescapable and you live with it every minute of every day. Before to long it becomes part of you and you can't seem to wash it away.

Well, on a much lighter note I met some Americans traveling from San Ramon, California. Yes, San Ramon! They were traveling through Africa with their Church and just stopped by to see the Filadelphia Project which is sponsored by a Dutch Christian Church. It was so strange to be standing in front of my class teaching and trying to maintain some order with 50 kids under the age of seven when in walks five clean mzungus from the place I grew up. After just a minute or two they promised they would pray for me and off they went.

Oh, and yesterday I got a ride from the richest man in Nakuru (not like it sounds). He is an Indian gentlemen who was born and raised here in Kenya. He now runs the family restaurant and grocery store which supplies food and basically everything else here in Nakuru. His family also owns a hotel in Miami Beach, as well as a few grocery stores in England. He is the chairman for a boys home here in Nakuru where we do volunteer work and when we were leaving and starting our 2 mile walk to town he drove up in his Mercedes (the only one I have seen in Nakuru) and offered us a ride to town. Needless to say it was bizarre to be driving in this luxury car in one of the poorest places in the world. There is a strong Indian presence here in Nakuru, the majority of business' that I have come accross have been Indian owned (just an interesting fact).

I am off to Lake Nakuru and Thompson Falls this weekend for a bit of a holiday (again those damn English). And most importantly getting atleast one good night sleep away from the city noises.

I love you all and miss you more than you could ever know!

Amber

ps "those damn English" refers to the fact that I am picking up more and more words from my English roommates.